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2021 CFDA Fashion Awards ceremony – Celebrating Counterfeit

2021 CFDA Fashion Awards ceremony – Celebrating Counterfeit. Review by Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE.

Counterfeit Illegal goods designer Dapper Dan Winner of lifetime achievement CFDA Award 2021

Emily Blunt, Chairman of the CFDA Tom Ford, Dame Anna Wintour, Designer Demna Gvasalia of Balenciaga, Kering - CFDA Award 2021

CFDA Fashion Awards 2021 ceremony took place at the Pool + The Grill within the Seagram Building on Park Avenue. The fabulous evening was hosted by actress Emily Blunt.

Celebration of counterfeit and illegal goods designer Dapper Dan with the Geoffrey Beene lifetime achievement award

This year CFDA honored counterfeit goods designer Dapper Dan with the Geoffrey Beene lifetime achievement award, making him the first designer without a fashion show, and the first designer who produced counterfeit goods, chased by FBI, to ever win the honor.

Counterfeit Illegal goods designer Dapper Dan Winner of lifetime achievement CFDA Award 2021

Dapper Dan was tearing when he received the award this Wednesday November 10. He proudly told the story how he printed on fabrics in his atelier the logos of Louis Vuitton, Gucci and Fendi, how he picked the designs from sportswear companies, or Christian Dior Haute Couture designs for the famous jacket he made with Louis Vuitton printed logos to Olympic Runner Diane Lynn Dixon, or how he mixed Gucci and Louis Vuitton logos on the bomber jackets. Dapper Dan proudly told the story about how he “created” jackets, even total looks for drug-lords, rap or hip-hop singers.

Dapper Dan also told the story about how fashion brands filed massive lawsuit against him, he was chased by FBI, and finally they were able to close his atelier in Harlem, and strip him from all money he earned by production of illegal goods. Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Dior, and specifically Fendi put the end to this illegal production. 

Olympic Runner Diane Dixon - Counterfeit Illegal goods designer Dapper Dan Winner of CFDA Award 2021

Counterfeit Illegal goods designer Dapper Dan Winner of lifetime achievement CFDA Award 2021

Counterfeit Illegal goods designer Dapper Dan Winner of lifetime achievement CFDA Award 2021

In 2017 CEO of Kering Luxury Group Francois-Henri Pinault and CEO of Gucci Marco Bizzarri decided to invest several million dollars, and and relaunched Dapper Dan as a by-appointment studio for custom pieces. Dapper Dan himself was even starring in Gucci’s new men’s-tailoring ad campaign.

In another words CEO of Kering Luxury Group Francois-Henri Pinault released “Counterfeit Bacteria” on the world and started “Counterfeit Pandemic“, which spreads today as rapidly as coronavirus. Here and there I see “designers”, who present even in department stores their counterfeit production, some sort of hybrids.

I’m asking myself a question – is that some strange way of Kering to “outsmart” LVMH? Gucci belongs to the Group Kering, Luxury goods company. Louis Vuitton belongs to LVMH – another Luxury goods company. And back in the 90s Dapper Dan used mostly Louis Vuitton,  Gucci and Fendi logos, mixing and matching them up. It is known that Kering and LVMH for more than 50 years had a war for territory in the luxury market. So when in 2017 Gucci invested to re-opened an atelier in Harlem for Dapper Dan, invested to clean up his reputation, paid media (and specifically to one), made him sponsor of New York Fashion Week, there is a reason for that. Tailoring method, or as Dapper Dan calls it “designs”, which were used with Louis Vuitton logos today remade with the logos of Gucci. Is it another way, quiet pervert I might add, to take territory from LVMH? The perversity of it all, mind games if you like, would be this investment in Dapper Dan of François-Henri Pinault, CEO of Kering, with desire to “outsmart” Bernard Arnault, CEO of LVMH, and take the “territory” which is definitely outside of law, in the dark side, belonged to LVMH in the past. Although this mind game of Francois-Henri Pinault has a very dark outcome. He didn’t think about circumstances, how it’ll affect sociality, and what destructive results it could bring worldwide just 3 years after. Bringing Dapper Dan to the light side, paying the media to clean up his reputation, naming him “true genius”, made him sponsor of New York Fashion week, give him lifetime achievement award by CFDA in 2021 opened up a path to legitimize all illegal producers, counterfeit designers. And started “Counterfeit Pandemic”. 

In 2018 Vogue became promotion outlet for Dapper Dan, in 2019 Vogue invited as a guest of honor Dapper Dan to The Met Gala, invited stars to visit his atelier in Harlem. And in 2021 Pepsi who wanted to become a sponsor of New York Fashion Week Dapper Dan was imposed, so he can also be announced as a sponsor of New York Fashion Week. And the last – CFDA honored Dapper Dan with lifetime achievement award in 2021.

Chairman of CFDA Tom Ford celebrates Counterfeit Illegal goods designer Dapper Dapper Dan CFDA Award 2021

Gucci CEO Marco Bizzarri, A$AP Ferg, Susan Chokachi celebrate CFDA Award 2021 of Counterfeit Illegal goods designer Dapper Dan

The shadowy business of counterfeits has taken over the globe to become a $1.2 trillion industry. Despite extensive and expensive efforts by brands, by law enforcement, efforts of the Organization for Economic Co-operation and Development (“OECD”) and the European Union Intellectual Property Office (“EUIPO”), this shadowy business became the center of the attention during this New York Fashion Week, and the most known designer / tailor of counterfeit illegal goods Dapper Dan was honored by lifetime achievement award for his counterfeit illegal goods production in 90s from its organizer CFDA (Council of Fashion Designers of America).

“We’re also incredibly pleased to see several talented names among the nominees for the first time. American fashion is experiencing a renewed energy, and the designers play a significant role in the future trajectory of our industry,” – said CFDA CEO Steven Kolb.

In parenthesis. Michael Kors at the beginning of 2021 proposed concept FENDACE, a collaboration between Fendi and Versace. Let’s say it is a very creative way against counterfeit pandemic. Fendi was the one who insisted in 1990s to put the end to counterfeit illegal activities of Dapper Dan, close his atelier, and strip him of all earnings.

Michael Kors didn’t approve the nomination of a counterfeit goods tailor Dapper Dan with lifetime achievement award, his sponsorship of New York Fashion Week. He predicted the “Counterfeit Pandemic” and decided to confront it in the most creative way – with the concept. Capri Holdings Limited, a multinational fashion holding company, founded and owned by American designer Michael Kors, since 2018 owns Versace – the most popular luxury brand, and the one being the most exposed to counterfeit.

Michael Kors proposed a concept to Donatella Versace and Fendi to create a mix-match collection and united their logos and styles. If public want to see Versace and Fendi logos in one luxury item, so let’s create it for them in one outfit and by these brands. This absolutely brilliant concept had a huge success during Milan Fashion Week this September. The collection Versace and Fendi got a name FENDACE. Donatella Versace leaded this project. Michael Kors even flew to Milan for the show.

Fendi Versace collaboration - The Swap - Fensace - Fendace - by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Back to Celebration of counterfeit and illegal goods designer Dapper Dan with the Geoffrey Beene lifetime achievement award….

“This is an important moment in American fashion. There is much excitement about the return of New York City and New York Fashion Week as well as the top caliber of diverse talent making their mark on the city and the global fashion landscape. The CFDA Fashion Awards are our biggest fundraiser of the year, and we are looking forward to our industry coming together, in person again, to celebrate the very best of American creativity,” – said CFDA CEO Steven Kolb.

Nominations for each award category were submitted by the CFDA Fashion Awards Guild, comprised of members of the CFDA, and Vogue magazine.

Winners of CFDA Fashion Awards 2021

Counterfeit Illegal goods designer Dapper Dan Winner of lifetime achievement CFDA Award 2021

American Womenswear Designer of the Year Christopher John Rogers – CFDA Award 2021

Drew Barrymore and Christian Siriano at CFDA Award 2021

Emerging Designer Of The Year Edvin Thompson Of Theophilio – CFDA Award 2021

Founders Award of the Year Aurora James and Dame Anna Wintour – CFDA Award 2021

Inaugural Face of the Year Award Anya Taylor-Joy presented by Cara Delevingne – CFDA Award 2021

International Women’s Designer of the Year Demna Gvasalia of Balenciaga, Kering Group – CFDA Award 2021

The Board of Directors Tribute honoree Yeohlee Teng, presented by Michael Kors – CFDA Award 2021

Zendaya, 2021 CFDA Fashion Icon, Iman and stylist Law Roach at CFDA Award 2021

Photo Credit: BFA, archives of Dapper Dan

CFDA Award 2021 Winners

CFDA Award 2021 Winners, Nominees and Honorees. Article by Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE.

CFDA CEO Steven Kolb announced that CFDA Fashion Awards 2021 will take place November 10 at the Pool + The Grill within the Seagram Building on Park Avenue. The Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) has revealed the winners, nominees and honorees for the CDFA Awards 2021.

This year CFDA will honor counterfeit goods designer Dapper Dan with the Geoffrey Beene lifetime achievement award, making him the first designer without a fashion show, and the first designer who produced counterfeit goods, chased by FBI, to ever win the honor.

In short designer, or more appropriate tailor, Dapper Dan in 1990s was taking logos from the fashion brands like Louis Vuitton and Gucci, printed them on the fabrics, he was taking the models from sportswear brands, who designed at that time the uniforms for the baseball and football American teams, then he added some puffed sleeves or other elements he took from French and Italian Couture brands like Christian Dior, and tailored the custom outfits – sportswear bombers or long t-shirts with the Louis Vuitton and Gucci logos for the druglords and rap singers. Fashion brands filed massive lawsuit against him, he was chased by FBI, and finally they were able to close his atelier in Harlem. Read full story HERE.

The shadowy business of counterfeits has taken over the globe to become a $1.2 trillion industry. Despite extensive and expensive efforts by brands, by law enforcement, efforts of the Organization for Economic Co-operation and Development (“OECD”) and the European Union Intellectual Property Office (“EUIPO”), this shadowy business became the center of the attention during this New York Fashion Week, and the most known designer / tailor of counterfeit goods Dapper Dan was honored by lifetime achievement award for his counterfeit goods production in 90s from its organizer CFDA (Council of Fashion Designers of America).

“We’re also incredibly pleased to see several talented names among the nominees for the first time. American fashion is experiencing a renewed energy, and the designers play a significant role in the future trajectory of our industry,” – said CFDA CEO Steven Kolb.

CFDA Awards 2021 - winner counterfeit goods designer Dapper Dan

Counterfeit goods designer Dapper Dan honored by 2021 CFDA lifetime achievement award by VOGUE magazine

This year the nominees for American Womenswear Designer of the Year are Catherine Holstein for Khaite, Christopher John Rogers, Gabriela Hearst, Marc Jacobs, and Peter Do. Nominees for American Menswear Designer of the Year are Emily Adams, Bode for Bode, Jerry Lorenzo for Fear of God, Mike Amiri for Amiri, Telfar Clemens for Telfar, and Thom Browne. For American Accessories Designer of the Year the contenders are Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen for The Row, Aurora James for Brother Vellies, Gabriela Hearst, Stuart Vevers for Coach, and Telfar Clemens for Telfar.

The nominees for American Emerging Designer of the Year are Edvin Thompson for Theophilio, Eli Russell Linnetz for ERL, Jameel Mohammed for Khiry, Kenneth Nicholson, and Maisie Schloss for Maisie Wilen.

The International Women’s Designer of the Year nominees are Daniel Lee for Bottega Veneta, Demna Gvasalia for Balenciaga, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons for Prada, Pierpaolo Piccioli for Valentino, and Simon Porte Jacquemus for Jacquemus.

Vying for International Men’s Designer of the Year are Daniel Lee for Bottega Veneta, Dries Van Noten, Grace Wales Bonner for Wales Bonner, Rick Owens, and Virgil Abloh for Louis Vuitton.

“This is an important moment in American fashion. There is much excitement about the return of New York City and New York Fashion Week as well as the top caliber of diverse talent making their mark on the city and the global fashion landscape. The CFDA Fashion Awards are our biggest fundraiser of the year, and we are looking forward to our industry coming together, in person again, to celebrate the very best of American creativity,” – said CFDA CEO Steven Kolb.

Nominations for each award category were submitted by the CFDA Fashion Awards Guild, comprised of members of the CFDA, and Vogue magazine.

CFDA Awards 2021 – CFDA CEO Steven Kolb

“Save the date and stay tuned for more exciting news!” – added Steven Kolb.

See the all lists of the nominated designers HERE.

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Keep Mask and Carry On - How to make Protective Mask

Article by Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE Eleonora de Gray. Read Full version of the article HERE.

Keep Mask and Carry On - How to make Protective Mask

Are there standards for production of protective face masks?

Yes, there are standards, and it is very important to follow them. The standards are very strict, so the tiny virus can’t go trough. That is important to understand and specially when we all start to make masks ourselves. And it explains why 1 layer of cotton mask – doesn’t do anything, doesn’t serve to anything, and basically only give false feeling of protection. Let’s start with description of the materials from which surgical masks and N95 made of:

Surgical masks are made from “melt-blown, non-woven fabric”. They have a 3-layer structure comprising materials like:
Waterproof non-woven layer (front)
Microfiber melt-blown non-woven fabric as filter (middle) – VERY IMPORTANT
Ordinary non-woven fabric (back)

“Melt-blown” fabrics are not the woven or knitted structures in, like t-shirts and jeans for example, they are more like paper-mache. The complex layering and overlapping of these thin plastic filaments creates a thicket-like maze that can trap the airborne particles. The thin plastic filaments in disposable protective face masks are a polymer called polypropylene. Polypropylene has two great properties for repelling viruses: it is negatively charged, and it is water-repellent. Now, viruses need water to remain viable, and are also negatively charged. And…. negative repels negative. Negatively-charged polypropylene molecule will repel the negatively-charged virus, and because polypropylene also repels water, the virus is denied the moisture it needs to be viable. Ta-da!!!

Three separate types of polypropylene negatively-charged fabrics in the surgical face mask: a breathable type for next to mouth, a microfiber filtering type in the middle (filter), and a barrier type on the side facing the world.

3 layers surgical face mask

N95 medical mask is almost the same as surgical mask but has more layers and fit tightly to the face. But the layers and principals are the same. Polyester also repels water, and is also negatively charged – just not as negative as polypropylene. That is why 1 layer of cotton, which has huge holes in relation to the size of virus, is useless. This kind of mask simply let virus go trough the cotton without any problem, as there’s no mask at all.

And now for the tricky part – the fabrics. There are all kinds of different fabrics, knits, cottons, polyesters, microfibers. What to choose? There are 2 organizations I know who provided all manufacturers and fashion designers with requirements of the fabrics for the masks for hospitals and for public. In USA all standards certified by The Food and Drug Administration (FDA). In France all standards certified by Association Française de Normalisation (AFNOR). Today they have million downloads from all over Europe standards guides to manufacturers and generally to everyone. Both these associations are on the same page.

AFNOR offers fabric guide to all public, which describes the quality of many fabrics which we can find and use. Do not hesitate – USE IT, CONSIDER IT AS ULTIMATE GUIDE !!! Quality of every fabric is described according to how airborne particles (virus included) can go trough or not, what fabric can be used as a barrier or filter. Today French government engaged several textile manufactures to produce protective masks for public according to AFNOR guide.

So let’s summer up and go according to AFNOR guide. The protective mask we can produce ourselves should contain several layers. Cotton can be used for front and back. And the most important middle layer is….

Microfiber Non-Woven Fabric as filter in face mask is THE SECRET WEAPON AGAINST VIRUS.

In another words the protective mask’s secret weapon lies in the middle layer. We can find this fabric in any supermarket. These fabrics we use for the napkins, for cleaning window and glasses “non-woven cloth”. It is very important to know that most air filtration are made of non-woven microfibers. Non-woven fabric is a fabric-like material made from staple fibre (short) and long fibres (continuous long), bonded together by chemical, mechanical, heat or solvent treatment. The term is used in the textile manufacturing industry to denote fabrics, such as felt, for example, which are neither woven nor knitted.

Why we use this microfiber non-woven fabrics for cleaning? Simply because microfiber textiles designed for cleaning on a microscopic scale. Why? Because they negatively-charged, and therefore this fabric keeps all dust and microbes on them. According to tests using microfiber materials to clean a surface leads to reducing the number of bacteria by 99%, whereas a conventional cleaning material reduces this number only by 33%.

So when it comes to the protective mask it is a vital importance to use this microfiber non-woven fabric as a filter. The one we can buy on the supermarkets for cleaning is close enough to the microfiber fabric used for medical masks. Another trick worth mentioning. As I already mentioned this microfiber fabric is negatively-charged, the cotton on another hand is positively-charged, as it made with natural materials.

Understanding - 3 layers protective mask

And guess what happens when negatively-charged and positively-charged materials are interacting with each other when they put together in the mask? They are creating a electromagnetic field, which is for certain stops virus for getting to you. The virus particles glues to the microfiber filter and stays there. This is the secret of the filter.

So to simplify the protective face mask you are going to make yourself should have 3 layers. 2 cotton layers and in the middle as filter microfiber non-woven fabric.

How to make protective face mask yourself

If you choose thin microfiber non-woven material like table napkin for example, the mask can’t be washed and can’t be reused. And another if you can’t find non-woven microfiber material buy woven microfiber material. It won’t be that effective, but it’ll still be protective, as this material will still be negatively-charged and will create electromagnetic field when interacting with cotton. Also don’t buy non-woven materials where are some products in them, or made of some glass particles like many bags for vacuum cleaners. The best choice would be fabrics for cleaning windows. Fleece (it’s also non-woven polyester) will do too BUT is much less effective, as it not that strong, so negative field won’t be that powerful, and as a result electromagnetic field will be not that strong.

Let’s say non-woven microfiber cloth as filter will give 80-90% of protection, woven microfiber cloth will give 70% of protection, fleece will give 60% of protection.

For more better performance and more sewing experience I give couple of images from AFNOR.